DHARAMSHALA: Not many have yet heard of this Tibetan settlement in the hills of central India. Locked away in the dense jungles of Chattisgarh, among a group of 62 plateaus perched at 3500 ft above sea level, Phendeling is a quaint Tibetan settlement which is slowly emerging as a major tourist destination. (Mainpat is the name of the nearest Indian village)

Since 1959, when Tibetan refugees started coming into exile in India, the Indian government have graciously re-settled the refugees across its various states. One group of Tibetan refugees, working in road construction at Sitapur, arrived at Mainpat. This group was allocated 3000 acres of wild forest land for cultivation and settlement, with the consent of the Home ministry.

Historically, the area was home to the Yadavs and tribes like Manjhi, Manjhwar, Kanwar and Pahadi Korwa of central India. However, with the establishment of the Tibetan settlement, the area has gradually absorbed the culture and flavour of the Tibetan people, earning the title ‘mini-Tibet’ from the local Indians.

Mainpat was a beautiful landscape in a very isolated place but it was nothing more than a jungle when the Tibetans first settled there. The settlement now consists of seven camps within a radius of 25 kms, with an average distance of about 5 to 6 Kms from each other. The camp no.1, so to say, is locationally and also functionally the central camp. The school, settlement office, co-operative society, workshop and health clinics are all located here.

The settlement had an initial population of 2000 and the main economic activity is agriculture, of which potato is a major staple crop.  However, there has been a decline in the population due to internal migration of people. Besides agriculture, the Tibetans are also engaged in trading, restaurants, shop keeping, and seasonal sweater selling.

The settlement is located in Surguja District of Chattisgarh. The nearest commercial town from the settlement is Ambikapur which is 50 km away. The nearest railway station is Bishrampur, which is about 75 kms from the settlement.

The road to the settlement from Ambikapur has been a constant work-in-progress. Drivers accustomed to city roads have described the journey from Ambikapur to the settlement as a ‘driver’s nightmare’. However, once you reach the plateau, the perilous journey is long forgotten and visitors are rewarded with a picturesque view of prayer flags fluttering in the breeze and distant sounds of Tibetan monks chanting mystical mantras from hill top monasteries.

The key attraction of the settlement is the Thakpo Shedupling Monastery. Built in 1970, it houses old thangkas, wall murals and a solar heater that boils water and cooks rice in just 30 minutes. Travellers can also stay in Swiss tents at Mercury Resort & Restaurant, and savour Tibetan foods in the midst of bamboo décor. There are plenty of other inspiring adventures to be explored in this wild and remote hill settlement, also dubbed as “the Shimla of Chattisgarh.”

The settlement is also surrounded by many cultural and natural sites of interest. Scenic viewpoints in the area include Mehta Point, Tiger Point and Jaljali or vast farms of potato and tau (buckwheat). A strange sight include the bouncing swap of Jaljali and charming Chota Jharanā tucked away in a pocket of jungle with a small waterfall.

Phendeling or Mainpat Tibetan settlement is a charming picturesque place atop a jungle plateau. It can be a soothing getaway from the daily hustle and bustle of city life. And for those who remain a romantic at heart, it can also serve as a soul-searching destination in the serenity of the peaceful jungle environment.

The settlement was also listed among ‘10 new Indian Destinations to Visit‘ by a leading travel magazine recently.